I totally live a dream life of surfing*, and the other day I think I understood why.
Not only does becoming a good surfer take a lot of hard work, but you also have to wake up early.
We went to Rockaway with Ashley, Bailey and Jessica the other morning to catch the first morning waves. Five in the morning, big smiles (and great style too), it kind of made me rethink my life priorities**. And watching them walk on the beach with the first rays of sun, throw themselves into the ocean and come back to the city a few hours later as New York is still sleeping, you realize that once it gets in your blood, surfing must be pretty powerful. A real passion.
Do you have anything that pulls you out of bed?
* I’ve been dreaming about surfing forever and never actually tried – well I did paddle this year so… – all right, not the same at all.
** Like when I wake up at 7am to go to yoga I’m so proud of myself I talk about it all day and in the evening I get drunk just to celebrate.
PS: Some have found a solution for the ever perfect wave. A perpetual wave, on a river, in Munich. Incredible!